From October 14th to 15th of each year, in the Matubata Hachiman Shrine (松原八幡神社) in the city of Shirahama in Himeji, Hyogo Prefecture, the Nada no Kenka Matsuri (灘のけんか祭り) one of the biggest autumn festivals in Japan is held.
Nada no Kenka Matsuri, Fighting for blessings
Author: Sara
photo credits: armidaleexpress.com.au
The term “kenka”(けんか) contained in the name of the Festival means “to fight”, for this reason, in the current language, it is defined as “the Festival of the fight” in which the Kami (the gods) will bless the winner of the fight with a good harvest. Given the impetuousness with which it takes place, only high school boys and men up to the age of 45 can participate in the event according to Shinto tradition. In addition, participants must belong to 7 specific villages: Higashiyama (東山), Kiba (木場), Matsubara (松原), Yaka (八家), Mega (妻鹿), Usazaki (宇佐崎), Nakamura (中村).
October 14: The Eve “Yoi-Miya” (宵宮)
photo credits: armidaleexpress.com.au
At 11:00 am everything is ready for the “Neri-dashi” parade (練りだし). The 7 Yatai (small sacred floats) from the 7 villages go to the Matubata Hachiman Shrine to receive the divine blessing, “Miya-Iri” (宮入). Here the Yatai compete in the first competition called “Neri-Awase” (練り合わせ), competing against each other. A sort of “preparation” because the real “fight” will take place the next day and will be even more difficult. At this point, the “Shishimai” takes place: a dragon dance in front of the elementary school of Shirahama.
October 15: Hon-Miya the heavy Yatai clash
photo credits: diversity-finder.net
The main event of the Festival starts at 5:00 am. The lion of the village of Matsubara (松原の獅子) celebrates the dragon dance at the Sanctuary to worship the gods. Afterwards, the ceremony moves to the ocean where the participants of the villages eliminate their impurities of the spirit by bathing in cold water (Osogi 禊). At this point, the Miya-Iri (opening ceremony) at the Matubata Hachiman Shrine is started with the blessing of the gods. At last, the thinking confrontation begins: the first are the 3 Mikoshi (the least expensive portable sanctuaries of the Yatai) of the village in charge of hosting the festival (every year the place changes alternating between the 7 villages).
The first Mikoshi (一の丸) is very heavy and is carried by men over 36 years old. The second (二の丸) is a bit lighter and is carried by men between 26 and 35 years old. The third Mikoshi (三の丸) is very light and is worn by men under 25 years old.
They fight each other twice (神輿合わせ, mikoshi-awase): first in front of the main building of the Sanctuary, then in the battlefield at the foot of Mount O-Tabi-Yama (御旅山). At the end of this clash, it is the Yatai’s turn on the battlefield (Neri-awase 練り合わせ).
photo credits: kabegami.image.coocan.jp
The excited cries of spectators and participants make the event particularly lively and full of passion. At the end of the battle, the 3 Mikoshi and 7 Yatai are taken to the top of the mountain where prayers are said. the Nada no Kenka Matsuri ends with the descent from the mountain which will take place in the same order in which the villages have climbed.